Sustainability has become the it-word in fashion conversations everywhere. It’s backed by designers, NGOs, big brands, and international organizations. On paper, it feels unshakable. But peel back the layers and you’ll find something missing: what actually makes an outfit “sustainable”?
Is it enough that it’s recycled? If so, how much of the garment needs to be recycled for the label to stick? Is it sustainable because natural processes were used, from stitching to colouring? Or does the presence of a single synthetic thread disqualify the whole piece?
These questions point to a bigger problem: there is no legal definition of sustainability in fashion. And that absence creates a loophole where brands can slap “eco” on a tag without proving much.
If we apply the strictest interpretation, that sustainable fashion must use materials and processes reducing environmental footprint, then almost everything in the textile industry fails the test. This industry alone contributes about 1.2 billion tons of CO₂ every year. And if even one actor in your supply chain ignores ecological practices, technically your product is no longer sustainable. Sounds harsh, right? But maybe that’s the point.
The upside of this stricter lens is that it would push brands to be more thorough, working only with certified partners. Certifications like EcoCert (which ensures raw material traceability and integrity) or Oeko-Tex (which guarantees fabrics are free from toxic substances) are examples of what real accountability looks like. If widely adopted, they would make recycling, upcycling, and mindful production not just trendy, but mandatory
But here’s the catch: why would anyone chase these certifications if the process isn’t localized?
If getting them requires jumping through international hoops, they’ll remain out of reach for most Kenyan or African designers.
And why would local producers be forced to comply while Kenya continues to import tons of second-hand and fast fashion pieces that ignore sustainability altogether?
The easy answer is: why bother?
The harder, truer answer is:
"change starts within. If communities, consumers, and local industries commit to rejecting unsustainable products, demand will shift. And when demand shifts, markets follow."
The stricter we are as a nation about the quality of our goods and services, the louder our voice becomes globally. Sustainability doesn’t have to remain just a word. However, it will take us deciding that it means something real and legally binding.
