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The Unseen Cost of Gendered Fashion

An interview with Androgenous Alpha
January 29, 2026 by
The Unseen Cost of Gendered Fashion
AfriHue
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BelowCloud 97 was born as a homage to those who feel fractured in fitting rooms or to those whose clothes align with social expectations yet fail to grasp who they truly are.

1997  


BELOWCLOUD97

My name is Androgenous Alpha, fashion manager and creative director of BelowCloud 97. Fashion has been part of my language since childhood. The name itself refers to my year of birth, 1997, linking my own arrival in the world to the birth of a vision I have carried for as long as I can remember. Below the Cloud 97 is, quite literally, the materialisation of that dream.

Undressing Gender


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As a queer person, finding clothing that truly spoke to me was never simple. Most options leaned heavily toward rigid masculinity, ignoring my body, my proportions, and my aesthetic sensibility. Others failed to reflect how I wanted to exist and be perceived. Thrifting became my first solution, a way to bridge that gap creatively, intuitively, and on my own terms.

In 2019, during the uncertainty of COVID, I founded Below the Cloud 97 as a creative store. My starting point was Gikomba. It was risky, but opportunities rarely announce themselves politely. That period disrupted movement, habits, and lifestyles but it also opened space for bold decisions. I sourced garments, styled complete looks, and sold them online, building relationships one outfit at a time.

In 2020, a client asked me to make a suit. That request marked a turning point. Instead of reproducing a traditional garment weighted with masculine codes, I chose to deconstruct the suit entirely, reworking its structure, softening it, and reshaping it around the individual wearing it. The result was deeply personal, and unmistakably theirs.

Attention to intention is what gilds every action

Below the Cloud 97 is gender-neutral by intention, not by trend. By that, I mean the brand becomes what the client needs it to be. My work focuses on dressing the individual, honouring their physique, their comfort, and how they choose to be seen. Clothes are not declarations of gender; they are tools for self-expression.

Sustainability is central to my practice. I do not believe in waste. With enough care, skill, and imagination, anything can be transformed into something precious. This philosophy guides my material choices and my supply chain, which includes like-minded partners such as Nairobi Textile. Recycling, reworking, and intentional sourcing are non-negotiable.

My production strategy is simple, almost deceptively so. I pay close attention to trends and seasons. In Kenya, weather is unpredictable: scorching heat one moment, cold the next. Seasonal collections allow me to meet both aesthetic desire and practical need. People invest more easily in garments they are certain they will wear, pieces that serve their lives, not just their occasional situations.

Community as Currency


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Operationally, the brand has grown alongside its community. What began with modest setups evolved as I learned that presentation not only enhances appeal but also ensures safety and professionalism. I design concepts and sketches, and my team of skilled tailors brings them to life. Their discipline and organisation guarantee efficiency and consistency. I am deeply grateful for them.

Below the Cloud 97 has shipped to the United States and Canada, and I travel constantly with my photobook. Inspiration and opportunity do not respect geography. I work everywhere I go, turning creation into something fluid, spontaneous, and alive.

The Breaking Point


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One of my greatest challenges as a designer remains the deeply gendered nature of clothing. The idea that what you wear must explain who you are is both limiting and exhausting. Clothes exist first to cover the body. If, in doing so, they resonate with a person’s character beyond sex or sexuality, then something truly meaningful has been achieved. My clothes are for people, first, always.

Looking ahead, my goal is expansion but with integrity. Everything must continue to be made in Kenya. Kenyan craft, labour, and knowledge must remain here. The cost of production is not a burden to me; it is livelihood, school fees, dignity for my team. Giving back is part of the business model, not an afterthought.

My advice is simple: protect your brand and start with who you are. Do not fake it. Build with what you have. Authenticity is not only more honest, it is more realistically sustainable.

My greatest support system is my clients. We may meet as designer and client, but we grow into something more. Relationship-building is not strategy; it is community. And community is what sustains us all.

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